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1. HOW TO TAKE APART POWER MAC G5 CASE MAC OS
2. HOW TO TAKE APART POWER MAC G5 CASE FULL
3. HOW TO TAKE APART POWER MAC G5 CASE CODE
4. HOW TO TAKE APART POWER MAC G5 CASE PC

Apparently my motherboard does not really need it, so this line was left non connected. The MAC PSU has NO -5V, which to todays ATX spec is no longer required and it also does NOT provide a power OK signal. The MAC PSU also has a 5V sense line, so I routed it to one of the ATX 5V leads colse to the ATX connector end. The original 12V fan supply, fan return, fan tacho, 25V line as well as 12V audio/audio RTN are NOT in use for ATX, so I taped them up and kept them internal to the PSU housing. The MAC 12V supply is split into 3 rails, I routed the 12V 1 rail over the ATX 24 pin header and used 12V3 to feed the auxilliary P4 ATX header. The MAC supply has fewer 5V leads, so I had to splice 2 leads for the ATX end. The original P3 connector (serving the drive bay) was left entirely intact (matches the needs for the hard drives), P2 carries all the 3.3V leads, which needed to the pulled over (internally to the PSU) to show at the 24 pin ATX connector. I trimmed the cable in length to fit exactly to the targeted positions of the new motherboard and reused the existing outlet holes of the PSU case. I chopped off the original power supply connectors and patched the cables to a set of existing ATX cable (from a dead ATX supply) and shrink tubed every single solder joint.

HOW TO TAKE APART POWER MAC G5 CASE CODE

Based on pin out information I found on the web I discovered the color code of our model was different, but the pin positions were matching exactly. The original PSU was healthy (the corrosion had not continued into the power supply case!), so I figured I'd be able to rewire the harness to fit an ATX layout. So I removed the motherboard, removed the power supply and all the other collateral and started the work.

Getting to work on the G5, step 1 the PSU:

HOW TO TAKE APART POWER MAC G5 CASE PC

Cleaning did not help it, so I declared the box "non recoverable" from an economic perspective.īut turning it into a hack, given the shiny state of the case was a real option, especially because we had a fully operational Hackintosh sitting in a dull PC case. Going through the regular debug steps, validating the PSU, RAM and graphics I took the CPUs out and discovered the obvious problem: Leakage of cooler had lead to severe corrosion on the processor modules.

HOW TO TAKE APART POWER MAC G5 CASE FULL

The fans were humming at full throttle, but no boot and the pilot light would only flash when pushing the button. Turned out, that the machine was overall in very good, almost mint condition, but would not start. My son came by bringing in a G5 and asked me, if I could fix it.

HOW TO TAKE APART POWER MAC G5 CASE MAC OS

Dual boot with Clover, MAC OS El Capitan and Win 7.Original Apple Cinema Display 20 inches (with DYI ADC to DVI adapter).MAC G5 PSU (rewired to ATX), new NB fans.This modification has been done retaining the EXTERNAL look (front and back) as well as keeping the internal structure as close as possible to it's original state.īased on previous experiences, but most importantly based on the great ideas in this forum this modification succeeded with a great looking system. Purpose of the modification was to give an existing El Capitan PC installation an "appropriate" housing, a.k. Building a CustoMac Hackintosh: Buyer's Guide